Batteries are like that and most of these prebuilt systems only charge batteries to 60%-80% and you lose a shitload of functionality. If you don’t fill a tire all the way you won’t get the same pressure out of it. The last 10% of filling a tire with air is the most pressurized. The biggest problem I have noticed helping a few others with their setup is using prebuilt solar where the charge controller is too far from the battery to fully charge. During the night we don’t run the AC but can run every other appliance.ĭespite my setup being rather large, I’ve installed the same setup onto a Ford Transit van with a 300W panel and it worked flawless. It also allows us to run completely without a fuel based generator and we can run every appliance during the day including our AC (after installing a slow start into the AC unit). We have 18 panels that range from 100-300 watt each, but that was because we had the room on our roof to install them. I created a solar generator on the roof of my rig by slowly buying discounted panels (60-75% off using a site called camelcamelcamel) over the course of a year. Spending thousands on the battery bank only makes sense if they need to be inside the rig somewhere and sealed. Plus golf cart batteries were designed to charge and drain daily vs Marin 12V. If you find a rig that you can justify a portion of the under bay for your batteries, I’d recommend 6V golf cart batteries hooked on series and in parallel because they are cheap, and easy to replace if necessary. That way you can ensure you charge controller is <12 inches from your batteries to avoid voltage drop/loss. Just mount your solar panels and run the wiring yourself. I would never under any circumstances use any prebuilt for solar connects. I’ve lived off grid the past 5 or so years in my fifth wheel.
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